rockybeginnings

First stop – Belorado

Still a little sad to be walking on without Jackson, I headed off early to Belorado, hoping to arrive before the worst of the day’s heat. My Camino crew were a day ahead so I was on my own for a couple of days.

After putting in the first 7kms for the day, I arrived in the village of Grañon, perfect timing for breakfast.

Church on one side – bar on the other. Tends to be how it is in almost every village. My friend, Leanne, tells me that she slept on a gym mat in that church. One of her more interesting Camino experiences – but better than on the bare floor, I guess.

As I departed the village, this gentleman was seated in prime position to greet perigrinos and we communicated with my extremely limited Spanish vocabulary- but he was eager to wish me well!

Arriving on the outskirts of Belorado around lunchtime, I stood outside the first Albergue, wishing desperately that it was mine. My feet were aching, burning, bright red and it took everything I had to take another step. Note to self: never stop until you don’t have to walk any further at the end of your day’s walk. The struggle to walk those last couple of kilometres is very real!

Once I’d finished my pity party and found my rhythm again, I meandered through the streets until I found a bar. It was hot, dry and I had a raging thirst. And miracle of all miracles- they actually had olives as a snack! And don’t judge me – I love anchovies!

I had booked an albergue for the night, and yep, I’d picked one on the other side of town. There were only two of us in the dormitory though – and when the other occupant told me they’d been staying there because they were unwell, I chose a bed in the far corner of the room and huddled up there for the night.

The walls, like every place I’d stayed in, were paper thin and a woman (who was walking with her little poodle🤷🏻‍♀️) in the private room next door chatted loudly on her phone til after midnight.

So here I go again for this part of the post – had so much done and phone froze and it didn’t upload… so today, I’ll probably tell you my story from a completely different perspective!

I tried, to no avail, to book accommodation for the next day so that I could have somewhere to send my pack on to. I’d intended to try and walk on until I was just on the outskirts of the city of Burgos.

With the prospect of no place to stay, no more bus stops on the next two stages, along with my feet issues, I made the very difficult decision to skip a day and a half’s walking and catch a bus straight to Burgos where my Camino crew were meeting up for a two night stay. They even booked me in to a BnB with them!

The next morning we did a self guided tour of the amazing Burgos cathedral- me faster than the others because I’m adverse to the hoards of tour groups blocking our view to absolutely point of interest. We’d started out early in an attempt to beat the crowds but apparently, the tour groups are doing that too!

Next on the agenda was to find some new hiking shoes – eventually, success! A pair of Altra Timp 4 runners – weird looking shoes but I was assured they’d get me through the remainder of my hike. 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

While I was off in search of my miracle Camino saving shoes, the rest of the crew were focused intently on writing postcards to their family. Their word flow was helped along by the most excellent and perfectly chilled Spanish beer! Well, Mani had already moved on to his Vino Blanco…

That afternoon, we headed to the amazing Museum of Human Evolution- self explanatory for what you are going to see and learn there. The day of hiking that I’d missed would have taken me through a place called Atapuerca, a World Heritage listed archaeological site that contains rich fossil records of the earliest humans in Europe. https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/989/

The museum in Burgos is said to be an even better experience than the exhibits at Atapuerca so I was grateful to have not missed out entirely. Although I’m told that the sunrise from up there is spectacular.

Leaving Puenta La Reina in the early morning light, I took advantage of an adjacent bridge to capture a shot of the ancient bridge across the Rio Arga. The name of this little town literally means ‘Bridge of the Queen’.

To Estella

It was a glorious day for hiking and there were plenty of villages to explore along the way. In between? Stunning countryside with wild flowers beginning to bloom profusely.

And finally, feet burning, I arrived at my accommodation in Estella – with the most beautiful albergue right on the river. Such a satisfying day of walking – but oh, how I needed a lie down!

on to Los Arcos

I headed off early the next morning through the empty streets of Estella, stopping at the first village to meet up with my new Camino buddy who would walk with me for the next five days.

After the hugest of hugs and the most excellent breakfast together, we set off on our hike for the day. And what was the first point of interest we encountered?

And yep! My Camino buddy was Jackson, visiting me from Sweden! We went easy on the wine at that time of day as our hike had only just begun and there were many hills to climb!

And after a day of catching up after almost a year apart, we arrived in Los Arcos.

As we headed out to dinner that evening, I saw a familiar figure walking towards us. She was heading to the next village because of miscommunication – she thought she’d booked two nights here, but alas, only one. Yep – it was beautiful Marian. I introduced her to Jackson and afterwards, he described her as ‘endearing’. Perfect. And don’t worry – she messaged me to let me know that she had arrived safely and was booked in for two nights to regroup.

It had been a long, hot hike so after dinner with some of my Camino family, we called it a day.

Logroño bound

We made an early start on our second day of walking together and were rewarded with the most incredible sunrise. Always look behind you as you walk the Camino, they say – and we’re so glad that we did!

We were hot, sunburned, and quite frankly, exhausted – and thinking that this day’s walk would never end…. And then, a familiar accent boomed across the road. And not one, but three Aussie blokes appeared.

Turns out they were Catholic School principals from the Scenic Rim region on a sabbatical for their many years of service. They all either knew, or knew of, my last boss, Matt O’Hanlon. And one of them was from Rocky – Chris Golightly – son of my year 7 teacher. I’d even been back at that same school in Park Avenue and taught with that same teacher in my early twenties.

We had quite the chat, all of us amazed at this serendipitous moment. And it took our minds off our painful feet for the remainder of our walk into Logroño.

On to Navarrete!

After bunking down in a twin room in a crowded albergue, we were off early the next morning – me in search of a ‘café con leche’ to kickstart the day!

And we managed to arrive in Navarrete in time for lunch with my Camino crew!

My Camino crew were a mixed bunch – France, Germany, UK, Canada, USA, the Netherlands and Australia. It made for interesting and sometimes hilarious conversation.

I took 2 buses back to Logroño in search of a day pack as my feet had become so painful by the end of the day, I could barely walk. A different pair of shoes was also needed so until I found the right ones, I’d need to send my backpack on each day.

Daypack organised, we set off to an Italian (yep!) bar for a feast of Pinchos. Jackson was in food heaven! The vino tinto flowed that evening, thanks to the generosity of a couple of English peregrinos who didn’t want the party atmosphere at our table to end!

Luckily, before the evening progressed too far, someone reminded us to check out the cathedral. And I’m so pleased that we did!

Navarrete – Azofra

It was a beautiful morning’s walk. Rose bushes were in abundance by this stage of the walk – both wild and cultivated.

Every small village along the trail is flanked by community gardens and the one pictured below was a real beauty! The secret to success is what is added to the soil. And it quickly became the ‘smell’ (read ‘stink’!) of the Camino.

The threatening clouds soon delivered, but that didn’t deter us from taking a detour through a vineyard’s art trail and Jackson collected video footage for his own little work of art in preparation for a job interview. And it worked. He was the successful applicant!

When you are a child, you think about what you will be when you grow old. You dream of something big. And you don’t realise that your greatest greatness is already in you. In that place. In that moment.

In the afternoons at your grandmother’s house. In your mother’s embrace. In your father’s eyes. It’s there. It was there. In the simple things.

We spend our lives looking for what we already have. It’s just a matter of finding our way back home. Where our memories live. In a suction cup. (🤷🏻‍♀️- vacuum?)

As we passed through the village of Nájera, we couldn’t resist having a little bit of fun playing ‘dress ups’.

It was a very steep climb out of Nájera – one we weren’t expecting! But the skies had cleared and after the initial challenge, it was a gentler, if long and dusty, walk to Azofra where we stopped for a well deserved cervaza before doing the last few kms to our accommodation.

We spent the night in the most incredible pension. The owners had thought of absolutely everything to make it a pleasant and restful stay. There was even yoghurt for breakfast! It’s the little things, right?

Azofra to Santo Domingo del Calzada

We were off to an early start on our final day of walking together – stopping at Santo Domingo for the night so that Jackson could catch his bus back to Pamploma later that afternoon.

We arrived early in Santo Domingo and spent the remainder of the day having a long lunch washed down by a very nice Sangria tinto. And all too soon, it was time for Jackson to be on his way. It was such a beautiful five days. I can’t think of a better way to spend quality time with your child than to take a long walk with them. Thank you, Jackson. We had a blast!

After a much needed rest stop in the nicest old hotel, it was time to prepare for Albergue life again. Next stop – Belorado! Buen Camino!

Feeling well rested after a night in the comfiest of beds and with a fresh OJ (Spanish OJ is the best!) and my first Spanish Omelette in my belly, I headed outside to see blue sky!

It was quite surreal strolling through the empty streets of Pamploma at this early hour and so nice to be able to take in the sights of this beautiful city at my leisure.

I headed up the narrow streets towards the Cathedral to find my way back onto the Camino path, only to find that I was already on it and had to backtrack, lol.

But it was meant to be, because who should I see jumping out of a taxi at the top of the hill but Marian – my new amiga who slid down into Zubiri on her bum. 😂 She’d hitched a ride with Trent who had cabbed it in to the city for Sunday morning mass and so he passed the ‘Marian’ relay baton on to me.

Marian is adorable and so warm hearted but in a seemingly constant discombobulated state. I was her Camino Angel that morning as Marian was anxious about finding her way out of Pamploma. So much so that she desperate enough to put her trust in me!

We wound our way out of this beautiful city, stopping by the gardens to take a ridiculous number of pics of the flowers.

Leaving the city behind me, and reassured that Marian was safely on her way, I headed along the gravel path that would become a feature of the next stages of the Camino, along with blue skies, sunshine that becomes relentless by mid afternoon and a landscape dominated by canola flowers and grain crops. Seemingly endless mountain ranges define the horizon.

For the first time on the way, cyclists began to appear on the path, many just locals out for their training rides and frustrated by perigrinos. It wasn’t long before a police car escorted an ambulance down the steep, gravel track after a cyclist and walker had collided. I kept my ears attuned to bikes coming from behind from then on as there are no bells on the bikes and cyclists here rarely give hikers any warning.

Steadily climbing all morning, by lunch tine, I arrived at the gorgeous little village of Zariquiegui. As I turned to walk out of the store, Fresh OJ and ham and cheese baguette in hand, Marian appeared through the door and shopping chaos reigned! I’m not sure what was left on the shelves!

I bade farewell to Marian once more, leaving her seated on the ground next to the cathedral, tucking into an enormous Caesar salad, a large can of San Miguel cervaza in her hand! Her first cervaza fell over and was running down the hill so I bought her another can as she looked so settled in for her lunch and rest. She was going to be at least an hour so I left her to it.

Bidding farewell to Zariquiegui, I continued on, upwards and upwards with the most incredible views at every turn until I turned a corner and came upon the amazing steel sculptures of peregrinos! I’d arrived at the top of Alto del Perdon (so much for reading my guide book that morning)! But I preferred the element of surprise – simply stunning.

If I thought the climb was a challenge, the descent awaiting me was even more so. It was literally like climbing down through a dry and rocky creek bed the whole way to the bottom. My knees were screaming and it was constantly a choice of should I go the bad way or the even worse way.

Eventually the road smoothed out and I arrived at my Albergue in the village of Uturga in time for a delicious pilgrim’s dinner along with some great conversation. And there was lentil soup for the first course! Vegetables! Finally.

While the food was incredible at the Albergue, the beds were not. I spent the whole night lying awake, fearing that every double bunk in the dormitory would collapse and crush those on the lower beds. The creaks every time a person moved were terrifying! 😂

I couldn’t wait to get out of there the next morning – it was my first experience of a whole lot of people getting up at some ungodly hour and banging and crashing about, getting packed up to leave. And the endless scrunching and rustling of plastic bags! Boy, I had a lot to learn about life on the Camino!

On to Puenta La Reina

Now, it was just a hop, skip and a jump to my destination for the day – Puenta La Reina. I’d planned it this way so that I could spend most of the day in this gorgeous little village. And it didn’t disappoint.

And of course, who should be sitting up at the counter in the bakery when I dropped in for some breakfast? Yep. Marian! I knew that she had a huge hike ahead of her that day and she was still hanging around at 11.30! I pretty much chased her out of town as she was distracted by every interesting thing and every person she came across.

After a quiet afternoon catching up on my journal over a glass of wine and a mini cheese board, it was time to catch up with my Camino family for the usual noisy and hilarious dinner.

It was a really pleasant way to spend my ‘half day off’ from walking. My favourite village so far. Next stop Estella! And my Camino visitor!

It was 10.00 am before I was able to leave for what was to be an epic day on the trail, due to an important online meeting back in Aus. Little did I realise what I was in for! A day of ups and downs! 😅

It was a bit of a bleak start to my hike, but I love walking in the rain so onwards and upwards I went. The trail meandered through a beautiful forest with so much moss – it was enchanting.

It was so nice to walk alone, and just listen to the sounds of the forest.

It was a steep hike up a mountain from Espinal and then an even steeper (and more slippery) hike down to cross the Rio Erro. Thank you, hiking poles! 😍. Oh, the mud. And the rocks. Yep, that’s why there’s exclamation marks on the steep descents in the map above! And why there’s no photos of the steep ascents and descents on this precarious day on the trail!

After passing through the village of Viskarreta, it was up another mountain and then the incredibly steep, wet, muddy, rocky descent. I somehow managed to stay upright, as I’m in my element with rock hopping and mud, but many pilgrims had muddy bums at the end of the day, and my new Canadian amiga, Marian, slid all the way down the last hill into Zubiri! It’s ok. She wasn’t hurt. But oh the laughter as she regaled us with the story at dinner that night.

It was right on 4.00 pm when, exhausted, I crossed the bridge into Zubiri and I faffed around looking for lunch which ended up being a Mars Bar from a vending machine and a seemingly endless search for an ATM that was right in front of my nose.

I finally arrived at Hostel Aka y Alla, a few kms on from Zubiri, by 5.30 and I’ve got to tell you, that cervaza went down well!

The host Jesus (pronounced with an h) had the best sense of humour and his comments through his Google Translate app were hilarious. He was a fabulously good cook too!

It was a night of outrageously good fun, partly at the expense of Jerry, who absolutely owned being a stereotypically loud, obnoxious American (his words) – milking it with comedic genius. And yes, we gave it back it him! So much fun at the end of a grueling day. And he was just the same at breakfast… Jerry will be forever ‘Dennis the Menace to me – just the grown up version.

Stage 3: On to Pamploma

The drizzle continued as we set off towards Pamploma. Hugging the beautiful Ria Arga, the trail meandered through the countryside and I spent the time chatting to Marcie, a Canadian woman who is as a very experienced hiker. She taught me so much about how to adjust my backpack and hiking poles to prevent injury. Thank you, Marcie!

We parted ways when the path began to climb quite sharply as I didn’t want to hold Marcie back. My hill fitness is still a work in progress.

My Camino amigos messaged me to say that they’d stopped in a bar in Burlada and kindly waited for me to have ‘una cervaza’ and a bite to eat with them before they left for Pamploma. I can tell you that I very much regretted that beer because it was much further than I thought to my accommodation and I couldn’t get the key into the door of my room fast enough! But I did take the time to take a quick pic of the huge Bullfighting arena for which Pamploma is famous.

That evening I met up with my Camino family ( yes, it’s really a thing) for Pintxos, more commonly spelt as Pinchos on the Tapas Strip of Pamploma. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a busier place on a Saturday night! And the food was incredible! And so great to try things I’ve not eaten before. But the Spanish do like to add egg to a lot of dishes. 😏

I was a party pooper and back in my room by 9.30. Oh, how I’ve changed! But the next day was going to be a big one, walking wise, that is.

Next stop – Uturga on the way to Puenta La Reina! I was SO looking forward to arriving at this beautiful village.

Upon arriving in Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP), I raced to the Pilgrim Centre to pick up my accreditation document that would give me access to Albergues along the way. I was not expecting to see the long queue down Rue de La Citadelle but c’est la vie.

Document in hand and hotel check-in complete, I headed to find an open bar, only to be beaten to the only place I could find (a Basque restaurant) by a bus load of tourists. But I didn’t let that stop me. I walked around that place, waving in windows until finally I caught the attention of the proprietor and mimed ‘a glass of beer’! Thankfully, he took pity on me and had me seated with said beer in hand in about 10 seconds flat.

Soon after, a couple of Aussie women were seated at the table next to me and we had quite the night of sparkling conversation accompanied by a little Sangria. A fine and hilarious start to my Camino and I hope I manage to catch up with these girls along the way.

Sleep was elusive that night, mostly due to fear of what I was to face the next morning – an 8km climb straight up a mountain to my first stop, Orisson.

Walking down Rue de la Citadelle next morning, pack laden and Pain aux Raisin in hand, I had no idea how to find my way in the pre-dawn glow. I saw a backpack clad silhouette in the distance and put my faith in his/her ability to know the way!

The only way was up, right? And up and up…. Accompanied by gentle bird calls and the crunch of my footsteps, I soon found myself in the countryside and in the very best of places to view the impending sunrise.

I stood with an Irish cyclist to watch the sun appear from behind the mountains and it augured well for the many adventures ahead of me.

I was quite chuffed with myself at the 5km mark. It was challenging, that’s for sure. But the next 3km provided many, many photo opportunities (aka rest stops). My, oh my that road was steep and I’ve never been happier to finally walk a little down hill and see the Orisson Refuge appear around the bend!

I was so happy to be settled in and grabbing a coffee by 11.00. And the view from the deck was incredible – at least until the white out!

After a night of conversation with other perigrinos which began the process of finding my Camino tribe, we awoke to the news that there was a snow storm on the mountain so most of us took a taxi to Roncesvalles. Those who took the chance told us later that it was a harrowing experience to do the hike through the storm and that it was a complete white out all the way.

The ride down the mountain was terrifying enough! And it reinforced my decision not to hike it. They closed the trail at 11.00 am.

It was snowing when we arrived in Roncesvalles, but after a coffee and a quick look around, my new amiga, Silvie, and I set off for Espinal.

The snow continued for the first part of our hike to Espinal but this soon morphed into the drizzle that would define our walk for the next few days.

A quick catch up with pilgrims at the only bar/restaurant in town, followed by yet another at dinner and there ended by second day on the Camino de Santiago. The vino tinto went down nicely. Not so much the pilgrim meal!